LONG STORY SHORT By Kristine McGowan Jason and I have hiked lots of trails throughout the Big Trip—480 miles of them, to be precise. We love exploring national parks on foot, and in every park we visited over the last 18 months, we searched for a specific kind of trail: the ones that cover many miles, promise big elevation changes, and require lots of planning. That’s because, in our opinion, the most demanding hikes tend to take you to the most incredible places. While we still haven’t checked off every hike on my bucket list, I think it’s safe to say that we’ve trekked along some of the best trails the contiguous U.S. has to offer.* Here are our favorite ones, organized by region. Out West: The Colorado Plateau Bright Angel Trail Where: Grand Canyon National Park, Ariz. We didn’t hike Bright Angel Trail during our Big Trip, but we couldn’t bring ourselves to leave it off the list. One of our favorite trails to date, Bright Angel lets hikers descend through millions of years of geological history as it leads from the rim of the Grand Canyon down to the Colorado River at the canyon’s bottom. From there, most hikers then hike back to the rim. Instead, Jason and I took off our packs and hopped into a boat for a nine-day trip down the river. Tip: Go on a multi-day river trip through the Grand Canyon. You won’t regret it.  Fairyland Loop Where: Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah I like Bryce Canyon throughout the year, but I absolutely love it in the winter. The sight of fresh snow on the vibrant hoodoos always puts a huge grin on my face. On the Big Trip, we hiked the much shorter and less difficult Navajo Loop, which is absolutely worth the trek, but I chose to include Fairyland Loop in this list because 1) it’s longer and more difficult, which means you’ll see more hoodoos and fewer people, and 2) we hiked it at my favorite time of year. I can still feel the snow crunching under my feet. Tip: If you use a hydration pack, make sure to empty the drink tube regularly while hiking in freezing temperatures. Otherwise, you’ll have a hunk of ice hanging around your neck.  Angels Landing Where: Zion National Park, Utah This hike is the most iconic in Zion National Park for a reason. The first mile and a half or so feel like your typical trail, with smooth walkways and switchbacks—but the last half mile? You’re toeing along a knife-edge ridge, with steep drop-offs on either side of your feet and waist-high chains to keep you steady and help you climb. Jason isn’t a fan of heights, but fortunately, he managed to reach the top and experience stunning views of Zion Canyon. Tip: Leave plenty of space between yourself and other hikers on the ridge. Hikers sometimes grab the chains unexpectedly, and the closer you are when that happens, the more likely you’ll lose your balance.  The Narrows to Orderville Canyon Where: Zion National Park, Utah If Angels Landing is Zion’s most iconic hike, the Narrows is its most memorable. Because it’s not a trail, per se—it’s a river. On this hike, you wade upstream through the Virgin River to reach the narrowest section of Zion Canyon, where the rock walls stand so close to one another that they almost look like they’re touching. The complete hike stretches for 16+ miles, but every inch of this “trail” is incredible, so you could trek only one mile in and leave stunned. Just make sure to check conditions and dress appropriately before you go. We hiked the Narrows in November, so we rented dry bibs, neoprene socks, and canyoneering boots to keep warm. Tip: Take a single walking stick with you, not collapsible trekking poles. Given the strong current and unstable footing, you’ll want something sturdy and rigid in one hand. You’ll want the other hand free to steady yourself against the canyon walls.  Druid Arch Where: Canyonlands National Park, Utah You think Delicate Arch is incredible? Allow me to introduce you to Druid Arch. This hike takes you through the lesser-visited Needles District of Canyonlands National Park, and as a result, it promises far fewer crowds and parking headaches than Delicate Arch does. On top of that, you get to explore sandy washes, canyons, and towering rock formations on this trail, including the colorful spires that give the Needles District its name. You’ll meet Druid Arch at the trail’s end, standing roughly 450 feet tall in a canyon fenced by spires. Can you see why we love this hike so much? Tip: Absolutely bring a map for this one. We lost the trail and had to backtrack several times, and we probably wouldn’t have loved this hike so much if Jason hadn’t downloaded the AllTrails map on his phone.  Devils Garden Where: Arches National Park, Utah We love trails that put our hands and navigation skills to work, and I don’t think any trail does that better than Devils Garden. This hike takes you to no fewer than eight natural arches, and if you complete the entire route, you’ll scramble up steep slopes, walk along narrow rock ridges, and probably scratch your head a few times when you lose track of the route. (But that just makes it more fun, right?) Of all the trails on this list, Devils Garden feels the most like a playground for avid hikers. Tip: Another hike where you’ll want a map. Also, don’t attempt this hike after recent snowfall. The route is impossible to find, and the rock scrambling gets dicey.  The Doll House Where: Canyonlands National Park, Utah If you want to see the truly remote areas of Canyonlands National Park, you have to check out the Maze. Accessible only via unpaved 4x4 roads or boat, the Maze District offers several days’ worth of adventure for backpackers and river rats alike. We explored the Maze as part of a five-day river trip through Canyonlands this summer, and our favorite hike of the trip was this trek to the Doll House. From our camp on the river bank, we climbed over 1,000 feet into the Maze District to see the Doll House’s rock pinnacles, slip through slot canyons, and gape at untouched ancient granaries. Tip: You can access another trail to this hike via an unpaved 4x4 road, but visit the Maze on a multi-day river trip if you can. It’s so worth it. Out West: The Rocky Mountains  Cascade Canyon to Lake Solitude Where: Grand Teton National Park, Wyo. Our first tough hike of the Big Trip was a doozy, both in terms of endurance and spectacular views. Cascade Canyon is a gateway to Grand Teton National Park’s backcountry, and at its end, hikers can set out on a number of connecting trails to delve even deeper into the park. We opted to climb up to Lake Solitude, a remote alpine lake shielded by snow-laden rock walls. We’d had our eye on this hike for years before the Big Trip, and completing it gave us the confidence to set out on even tougher trails later on. Tip: To reach the trailhead into Cascade Canyon, take the shuttle boat across Jenny Lake from the parking area. Otherwise, you have to hike around the south side of the lake to access the canyon.  Highline Trail (with offshoot to Grinnell Glacier Overlook) Where: Glacier National Park, Mont. Talk about a hiker’s dream. There’s no shortage of incredible trails in Glacier National Park, but Highline Trail has to be the park’s crown jewel. The trail takes you above the tree line and along the sides of glacially carved mountains, deep into the territory of mountain goats and grizzly bears. (Bear spray is a must here. We didn’t meet any grizzlies on trail, but we spotted one at the trailhead the day before we did this hike.) Along the way, you can take an offshoot trail to an overlook for views of Grinnell Glacier. But be warned: With ~1,000 feet of climbing over less than a mile, the trek to the overlook is the toughest stretch of this entire hike. Tip: Take advantage of the park’s shuttle system to shave some miles off the hike. We parked our car at The Loop parking area, took a shuttle to the trailhead, and then hiked back to our car via Highline Trail. It worked out perfectly.  Sky Pond via Glacier Gorge Trail Where: Rocky Mountain National Park, Colo. We love a good alpine lake, especially when the trail leading to it features waterfalls, stunning peaks, and patches of snow in July. Back in 2017, Jason and I ended our first visit to Rocky Mountain National Park with a poor track record, as we’d bailed on a couple hikes because we couldn’t “handle the altitude” (but really, we were just out of shape). On the Big Trip, though, we knew we could handle it, so we set out to hike as high as we could. That brought us to Sky Pond, a stunning alpine lake with water so clear that it crisply reflected the mountains bordering its shoreline. Tip: If you use the park shuttle to reach the trailhead, see some new sights by taking the Emerald Lake Trail on your descent rather that retrace your steps on Glacier Gorge Trail. You can catch the shuttle at Bear Lake. Out West: The Sierras  Yosemite Falls and Yosemite Point Where: Yosemite National Park, Calif. We had some history with Yosemite Falls before the Big Trip: Back in 2017, on our first trip to Yosemite National Park, we attempted to reach the top of the falls before realizing we’d started the hike too late in the day, with too little water and too much confidence in our abilities. So we had to bail. That’s why, when we came back to Yosemite last year, we set our sights firmly on the falls, and we prepared for the trek in all the ways we hadn’t back in 2017. In the end, we managed to reach not only the top of Yosemite falls but also Yosemite Point, an overlook beyond the falls with fantastic views of Half Dome and the valley. Most hikers stop at Yosemite Falls, so we had those views nearly all to ourselves. Tip: Prepare before you go. Also, don’t count the dozens of switchbacks as you climb to the falls. It’ll just make you more tired.  Vernal and Nevada Falls to Little Yosemite Valley Where: Yosemite National Park, Calif. We love this hike so much that we do it every time we visit Yosemite. The hike takes you past two of the park’s most famous waterfalls, first via a series of stone steps that often get drenched by the mist from Vernal Falls, then via switchbacks that bring you to the top of Nevada Falls. Last year, we added another couple miles to the hike so we could get away from crowds and find some solitude in Little Yosemite Valley. Fun fact: For Verizon customers, the cell signal is strong enough in Little Yosemite Valley to stream NFL football games. Tip: Make this hike a loop and return to the trailhead via the John Muir Trail. It’s quicker than tracing the same route back, and it offers more views of Nevada Falls on the way down. The South  Mariscal Canyon Where: Big Bend National Park, Texas Conditions weren’t great when we hiked this trail, so my photos don’t do it justice. (But really, when do they ever?) Still, even with howling wind, brutally steep climbs, and a two-hour drive along an unpaved 4x4 road, the hike to Mariscal Canyon made our list because the payoff is more than worth the effort. This trail brings you right to the rim of Big Bend National Park’s steepest and narrowest canyon, and if you can stomach the view, you peer down the 1,400 foot drop to see the Rio Grande snaking along the canyon floor below. Tip: Bring plenty of water and sun protection, as this trail offers no shade. Also, watch out for wild horses and burros.  Old Rag Mountain Where: Shenandoah National Park, Va. Of all the hikes on this list, this trek up Old Rag Mountain was the most unexpectedly difficult for us. It started off straightforward enough, with steady elevation gain along the trail as we made our way up the mountain. Near the summit, though, we began a rock scramble more strenuous than any scramble we’d one before. We launched ourselves over enormous boulders, wedged our way down a narrow crevice with a 10-foot drop, and pulled each other up and through some steep climbs. Old Rag tested us in ways no other hike had, and this made the views at the summit all the more glorious. Tip: If you hike Old Rag between March 1 and November 30, reserve a day-use ticket before you go. We didn’t know about this ticket requirement beforehand, but fortunately, tickets were still available when we arrived at the trailhead. (Can you tell we didn’t do enough research for this hike?) The Northeast  Precipice Trail to Champlain South Ridge Trail Where: Acadia National Park, Maine The Narrows may hold the title of the most unique hike we’ve ever done, but Precipice Trail comes in at a very close second. Forcing you to scale a 1,000-foot cliff in under a mile, this hike is more of a non-technical climbing route than a trail. You’ll scramble up a boulder field, climb iron rungs and ladders, and feel your veins surging with heart-pumping adrenaline the entire way. You’ll also tiptoe along exposed ledges and find yourself holding onto the cliff face for dear life more than once, so this hike is not recommended for anyone afraid of heights. That said, despite his fear, Jason reached the top of this hike without a problem; he just kept moving and avoided looking down. Tip: Take Champlain South Ridge Trail on your way down rather than the more-frequented Champlain North Ridge Trail. It’s longer but less crowded, and the views are jaw-dropping. I snapped the photo above on Champlain South Ridge Trail. Honorable Mentions: Canadian National Parks Our neighbor to the north has some great hiking, too. We ventured into Canada four times throughout our trip, and of course, we hit the trails while visiting their national parks. Here are a few of our favorites.  Photo Credit: Paul Tizzard Western Brook Pond Gorge Where: Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland We’re usually not interested in guided hikes, but this one in Gros Morne National Park is too good to pass up. The hike ends at an overlook with expansive views of Western Brook Pond Gorge. To reach the overlook in a single day, like we did, you have to reserve a guided hike, because the “trail” is an unmarked route up the gorge wall that’s impossible to find unless you’ve done it many times before. The view is worth the money and effort, even if it’s clouded by smoke from nearby wildfires.  Sentinel Pass via Larch Valley Where: Banff National Park, Alberta As we followed the Rockies last year, we learned that this mountain range only gets better the farther north you go. Banff National Park offers some of the best alpine hiking out there, but our favorite trail led from Moraine Lake to Sentinel Pass. The trail passes through a larch forest before bringing you above the tree line to exposed rocky peaks, all with distinct geological layers and imprints of the ancient glaciers that carved them. Our energy was running low by the time we reached Banff last year, but we couldn’t pass up this hike.  Bald Hills Where: Jasper National Park, Alberta What’s more magical than fresh snowfall in August? How about a grizzly taking a dip in a pond? Believe it or not, we got to experience both on this hike in Jasper National Park. We would have loved this trail even without those bits of magic—like I said, the Rockies only get better the farther north you go—but they certainly helped to cement this hike in our memories. * My hiking bucket list looks a lot shorter these days, but it still includes some big trails we’ve yet to do: Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, Harding Icefield in Kenai Fjords National Park, and North and South Kaibab Trails in Grand Canyon National Park.
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